We're spending our last couple vacation days here in Wellington, North Island of New Zealand, called the middle of the middle earth. Just when I wrote that sentence, the hotel's fire alarm went off. Down we went from the fourth floor. We had been grumbling that we didn't get a room on the 14th floor, but we were glad when we only had to walk down those 4 flights. Three fire fighters went in, and about 10 minutes later they were back in their truck. Perhaps Catherine will find out if it was just a drill. It's a sunny day in the high 60s with a big breeze. This is the Capitol of New Zealand, a port city surrounding a scenic bay surrounded by mountains. Our plane landed on a runway that ends along the water. We finally have good Internet service. Let me go back a few days.
Monday 9/24 we left Auckland for a drive south to Rotorua and begin to see hills and mountains. Catherine tells us 75% of their power comes from hydro, 10% wind, 15% coal, solar, geothermal. No nuclear nothing since 1985 (which isn't totally correct; tell you later) since a Greenpeace incident. Like Australia, most cities have ANZAC memorials here. Huge Kiwi losses at Gallipoli in 1915. We learn there is a Maori monarchy, but the king/queen is not recognized by the government. They just held elections, and no Maori party members were elected. New Zealand was the first country to give women the vote in 1893, thanks to Kate Sheppard (her face is on the $10 bill) and her suffragettes. There's a 15% tax on everything we buy. Did I mention seeing black swans here and in Australia? The Opera singer Kiri Te Kawanawa was born here, in Catherine's hometown. Sheep usually get sheared once/year on the south island and twice/year on the north island. There are strong feelings about the use of 1080 pesticides here. Greenstone (jade) are found here and have much meaning to the Maori people.
Catherine encourages us to engage with people we meet. Anne and I were waiting for a cab when a Uber driver pulled up to drop some people off. He graciously took us home. He is a young Indian Sikh man, a Turkish chef. He has residency and expects to have citizenship in another 6 years.
We visited the gorgeous Hamilton Gardens. We saw an Indian garden screaming with color, a Japanese garden with a peaceful pond, Italian garden with lovely structures, a kitchen garden; so many more. We talked with a young German man who was working the kitchen garden. He's been here for 3 years with no residency yet. We later stopped at an organic dairy farm for a home-hosted lunch with Ray, Dorothy and Riley the dog. They have 130 cows. Their milk is part of the co-op, and they sell to Whole Foods and Trader Ray's. Hard working people.
I just heard the sad news that my cousin Katerina Vaneckova passed away last week in Osturna. She had knee replacement last year, and I thought she'd come to the States for a visit. She was a warm loving woman, a real connection with my Grandma's family, and I felt a close relationship with her even if we didn't speak each other's language. May she rest in peace.
The next day we visit the geothermal area of Waitangi. There's a slight sulphur smell in this volcanic village. With our guide Martin we walked a path to Inferno Crater with an unbelievable blue color created from silica. We saw fumeroles, little geysers, mud pools, surprising plant life. Some exposed rock along our path was 179 degrees.
On Wed we flew to Auckland and then on a larger plane to Queenstown. We are in the Southern Alps, we see glacier lakes. A spectacular view from our hotel room. We see Mountains with higher snow-covered Mountains behind them. Anne loves it. I'll tolerate the snow if it just stays up there. It's another lovely Spring day, no jacket required. The lake our hotel is on is 1000' deep. The next day we travel 4 hours on the bus toward Milford, 45 degrees parallel south. There are waterfalls, hanging glaciers in this cold Rainforest. Huge green parrots called Kea visit us tourists. The mountains' makeup is similar to those in Antarctica. We drive through a mile long tunnel cut from the granite; it was started in 1922, completed in 1954. From the tunnel we come into a valley with vertical walls 1100' high. There are heavy clouds but no rain. Our boat rides from Milford out into the Sound (not really a 'sound', but a 'fjord') into the Tasman Sea. What a sight! But the return ride was spectacular, seeing it just like the first Europeans. Such majesty. We also see young male seals and waterfalls. Back on the bus for a long ride home.
On Friday, Anne, Patsy and I take a cab into Queenstown to see a doctor. We all get medicine. Our Dart River tour and jet boat ride were cancelled due to sleet and rain. At our hotel, one hour away, it's a lovely sunny day...
On Sat 9/30 we head towards Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. At 9:30 in the morning we are having a wine tasting along the way. We stopped in a little town to see some huge black eels in a very clear Lake. At another stop we met Rachel at a small channel off the river where they net White Fish Bait, tiny undeveloped white fish. You toss a mess of them with an egg, fry it up and serve it on white bread with lemon or mint sauce. A lot of work for a little snack. People love them. We continue driving up along the Tasman Sea, stopping at Bruce Bay to write messages on rocks at a pretty beach. We've crossed probably 25 single-line bridges. The little rivers become milky the closer we get to the glaciers.
Today, Sunday 10/1, we had the most wonderful experience. We took a helicopter ride up over the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers and some really huge Southern Alps. What a view, such a thrill. Our pilot, Clark Horrell, seemed to enjoy it as much as we did. We landed on some snow in the middle of this, and we got off the copter for some pictures. I was smiling the entire time, and I don't like snow... absolutely wonderful. (I got to sit in front, and Anne was jealous.) Catherine was happy that the weather cooperated so that ride was possible. Back on the ground, we took a walk along the glaciers former footprint. It's quite possible our great grandchildren will not see the glacier in their lifetime. We are traveling again along the Tasman Sea. Now we've crossed a one-line bridge that is used both by cars and trains. Yikes. Glad to see they are building a new bridge for car traffic only. We see erosion-formed sculptures in the sea similar to the 12 apostles in Australia. The temperature along the west coast is very mild. On Monday we have drizzle when we see the Pancakes, odd-looking rock in the sea resembling pancakes.
On Tues we drive east through the Alps via Arthur's Pass to the airport at Christchurch. We aren't visiting the city, which is still recovering from the huge earthquake in 2011 which killed 184 people. We all send best wishes for their recovery. We do stop at a sheep ranch for lunch. The land is fertile with 280" of rain annually. This farm is 2000 acres with 3000 sheep. We watch demonstrations of dog herding and sheep shearing. Did I mention we've seen quite a few triplets born to the ewes. Later our bus driver talked about the two quakes that hit Christchurch. A small one hit months prior to the big one when he was at his home in Christchurch. He was away working when the big one hit. He told of their struggles to re-establish infrastructure in town. He told us that a U.S. Navy nuclear submarine arrived, along with other naval vessels. The sub was able to connect its power supply to the city since the power supply was destroyed by the quake. So they keep it quiet, but they did indeed allow nuclear in their country.
So today is Wednesday. We had a cultural experience with the local Maori tribe today. Most of the group did some rowing aboard a waka boat, and later we took a short cable car ride. The trip is coming to an end. Tomorrow we take a city tour and visit museums. On Friday we all board planes for our long journeys home. Thank you, Catherine Hickey, for sharing New Zealand with us and giving us such great memories.
Fondly,
A & M
Anne's two cents:
Maddy does such a nice write up! In addition, I would like to add some of my thoughts:
Near Queenstown, we saw the original spot where bungee jumping started and watched a few people jump. If you are 75 or older it costs you nothing!
I am very impressed with the New Zealand and Aussies for their memorials to all who lost their lives during the various wars in which they participated. Every town and city has a memorial - it is impressive and apparently the memorial crowds grow each year according to Catherine, our tour guide.
Catherine and her first husband ran a successful winery until an accident took the life of her husband of 25 years. She is now married to Jock, an airline pilot and motorcycle enthusiast and has been leading tours for Overseas Adventure Travel for over three years. You can tell she loves her job from her enthusiasm of all the beautiful people, places and traditions she shared with us.
Another famous New Zealand woman - Jean Batten, born in Rotorua, NZ, best known for a number of record breaking solos flights across the world in the 1930's.
At the Hamilton Gardens, my favorite was the Kitchen Garden - lots of beautiful lettuces, beets, sorrel, artichokes, etc.
Going to Milford Sound (Fjord) was spectacular! This whole area reminds me so much of Patagonia and Torres de Paine in Chile. I loved all the majestic snow topped mountains and the great hiking areas.
Regarding our helicopter ride to the glacier, I wouldn't have been jealous of Maddy's front seat if she had taken my camera and the pictures (LOL). The ability to walk on top of the glacier is the most thrilling thing I have experienced. I would do that again in a heart beat!
I especially loved seeing the lambs frolicking in the pastures! They warmed my heart, unfortunately I couldn't get any good photos.
The rowing on the waka boat was fun, but far too short. And guess who won the prize for the "Pukana Award"? What is the Pukana Award you ask? It is awarded to the one who makes the ugliest Maori face while sticking their tongue out! Yes, I won along with fellow traveler, Lee, from Missouri. I won't grace you with the picture because yes, it is truly ugly.
The passing of Katarina, Maddy's cousin, was the third one on this trip for me. Mietek Fijarczyk, my cousin and my Mother's godson, passed away in his sleep on September 1st at the age of 75. My nephew Mark Sawicki's father-in-law, Kenneth Law passed away on September 29th at the age of 91. May they rest in peace.
Maddy and I missed our connecting flight from Chicago to Detroit by three minutes! We had to spend the night at the Hilton Chicago O'Hare Airport and flew out on Saturday, October 7 at 8:45 am.
I now have two blocked ears and feel like I am in a tunnel.
It was a great trip, exhausting but worth every minute!
More pictures to follow soon.....
