Our Middle East trip has almost ended. It’s bee a great tour, thank you Spiekerman Travel. It was a warm day but now at 7 p.m. it is 75 degrees and so pleasant. I’m sitting on a veranda listening to the call to prayer and watching some fireworks. Anne is recovering from a real tough walk,, but more about that a little later.
Sunday 10/9: We saw more of Jerusalem. The cemeteries are outside the city walls. The Arab cemetery was next to the wall. On the other side of the valley was the Mount of Olives, the Jewish cemetery. At the foot of the Mount of Olives is Gethsemane. We walked to a site commonly believed to be the site of the Last Supper outside the city gate. We said farewell to our guide Ettie as we drove to Bethlehem where we met our city guide George, an Arab Christian. He told us that 100 years ago, there were more Christian than Muslim Arabs in Bethlehem but the population has changed. We visited the supposed site of Jesus' birth. No one knows with certainty where these events took place. We visited the church built above the site, which is where Midnight Mass is televised around the world each Christmas Eve. It was decorated with flowers everywhere for a wedding a
little later in the day. Inside a group of Koreans were saying the rosary
(I'm assuming because of the cadence). It's amazing to see so many
Christian Asians and Indians here. Then we said goodbye to George and
returned to our nice hotel in Jerusalem. Anne and I both saw those 3
limos again with the heavy police escorts. I hadn't noticed in the
morning, but at least out of the last police car, there were some kind of
rifles sticking out of all the windows. There are incidents often; they
all don't make the American news reports.
Monday
10/10: Hello again to Anneke. Her toe healed a bit, and she took us past
the Knisset, the parliament building.
We went on to Yad Vashem, the heart-breaking Holocaust Museum. We also walked through the Children's
Memorial, which is hauntingly
stunning. We said our final goodbye to
Anneke.
Tuesday
10/11: Today is the start of Yom Kippur,
the most reverent time in the Jewish year.
Another beautiful morning. We
took an early drive to the Allenby Bridge for our tour in Jordan. It's not unusual to see Beduoin with his
herds, and we see a number of them this morning. There was a long wait to cross the bridge,
and it was important to get across it because they were closing it at 9 a.m. because of the holiday. Farewell to our driver Achmed. We enjoyed his smile and his easy-going
way. We made our convoluted way through
immigration and customs and met our driver Ziad and guide Hassan. Here we are in Jordan with another alphabet,
unable to read the language. But the Arabic
is more familiar to us than the Hebrew was, thanks to Dearborn and our Middle
Eastern restaurants. Hassan thanks us
several times for coming to Jordan. Tourism is very important to this country,
and tourism is down even though it's a stable kingdom. The early afternoon is hot. We traveled to a site where St. John baptized
Jesus. Yes, we saw the baptismal sites
in Israel, who is to say which it was.
Pope John Paul I I visited this site, so... And Hassan says THIS is THE place. Throughout Israel we saw Christian and
Orthodox churches, and we are still
seeing them in Jordan, predominately Greek Orthodox. I meant to mention that even young
construction workers welcome us to Jordan.
Come Visit! But be sure to visit
while you're young and in good shape. We
drive on to Jerash , an ancient Roman city.
Google it, hopefully there are some great pics. What a place! Built between the mid 1st thru 2nd
centuries, it is so impressive.
Hadrian's arch, a hippodrome, temples, a huge open square, tall columns,
just awesome. Around 300 C.E., the area
was damaged by an earthquake. Our hotel
was located in Amman (a.k.a. Philadelphia).
Nice hotel, very nice salmon dinner.
No, salmon is not a local fish -- but it was on the menu. We had a very small balcony off our
room. The call to prayer is heard
throughout the day.
Wednesday
10/12: The CRNA'S visited a large
hospital in Amman, and we went along for the ride. Then we went to Madaba to see the ancient
mosaic floor in the Greek Orthodox church.
The art of mosaic is still practiced and taught here. Off we went to Mount Nebo where Moses
died. But Hassan believes Moses was on
an adjacent mountain range due to its strategic location. We see many Beduoin herds men. Our night is spent at the Petra Guest
House. We've seen this often in our
travels: there is always an arrow pointing
toward Mecca in our hotel room.
Sometimes it's on the ceiling, on a tabletop, or in a drawer. Our hotel has a lively village around it.
Thursday
10/13: We have learned this is the year
1438 in the Arabic calendar. Hassan is
very knowledgeable and has a great sense of humor. He knows so much about life in the USA. His brother lives in North Carolina. But he would like to return again to Paris, a
city he loves. He does speak it
fluently. Today we walked through
Petra. What an incredible experience. Remember Raiders
of the Lost Ark? But Petra is so
much more, it's awesome. The Nabateyans
carved this sandstone for 13 centuries.
Water, wind erosion and earthquakes have left their mark, but seeing it
still leaves you with your mouth hanging open or with a huge smile on your
face. You walk for hours into the
canyon, going downhill (just remember that whatever goes down has to be walked
back uphill). Your eyes go wild trying
get to see all the carved spots. Most
are just huge, some more decorated than others; some vibrant natural colors and
patterns show. But you have to always
watch your step due to uneven surfaces and donkey/horse/camel poop. There are lots of trinket sellers and offers
for donkey-, horse- and camel rides. We
walked for 3 hours with Hassan telling us about many of the buildings, passing
the Treasury, the Theatre, the Great Temple and along the Colonnade
Street. We had a lunch break, and then
Anne and 3 other younger people decided to walk another 600-800 steps up to the
Monastery. The rest of started to trek
back through The Siq to the hotel except now we were doing it in hot sun. There were plenty of rides for sale, but most
of us toughed it out. Several hours
later our hero returned to the room, now with charlie horses in her thigh and
blisters on her toes. One of the gals
tracked the total steps/elevation, but I didn't write it down. My walk was tough enough; Anne's strong, we
all know. It's now 9 p.m. We've had dinner, and I'm sitting on a
patio outside enjoying the cool breeze and the sounds from a village festival,
watching some fireworks. Anne is
probably sound asleep in the room.
Tomorrow
we go to Little Petra and then head back to Amman. Sadly the tour is ending, we will all head
to the airport Friday around midnight for
our early Saturday morning flights
home. Anne will visit her cousins in
Poland, and I had better be heading to a snowless Osturna to spend more time
with Thom and Perun. The tour of Israel
and Jordan has been an experience we won't forget. (Pictures from Jordan in next blog post)
View of the walled city of Jerusalem
Area where the Last Supper was held
Church where Christmas evening mass is televised (prepped for a wedding)
Area where Baby Jesus was born
Wall separating Palestine from Jerusalem, we cross it to reach Bethlehem
Leaving Bethlehem on the Palestine border to return to a Jerusalem
Entrance to ruins of Jarash, Jordan