Mon 2/13/23: After a free morning, we flew northwest from the party city Oaxaca in the state of Oaxaca to Guadalajara in the state of Jalisco. Guadalajara, the state's capital, is Mexico's second largest city with a population of 1.5 million and over 5 million in the metro area. The city was founded on 2/14/1542. We're here during its 200th anniversary celebration as the capital of the newly-found state of Jalisco.
Tues 2/14: This morning we met our guide Ada for a walking city tour. Small world: Ada lived in Farmington, MI, with a boyfriend for three years a couple years ago. She returned to Guadalajara when the relationship fizzled. We walked three blocks to the square in front of the Guadalajara Cathedral where we hobnobbed with all the politicians gathered for the day's celebrations. There are many squares, some with pools, some with some most unusual art. We explored the Museo Cabanas, formerly a mission shelter for orphans, the elderly and the homeless, then a barracks during the War of Independence, then a children's school and finally an art center. In 1937 the muralist Jose Clemente Orozco, who lost his left hand at 21 from a fireworks explosion, began painting 57 most unusual frescoes of social realism in the main chapel. You could spend hours looking at the details of these murals. Ada was a great guide, full of knowledge. We wish her well. We walked this evening in the crowds gathering for the festivities in the municipal square, then headed back to our hotel.
Wed 2/15: A driver took us 3-1/2 hours northeast to the city of Guanajuato in the metropolitan area of Leon, home of 1.5 million people, in the state of Guanajuato. Anne likes this city the best so far. The 3-sided square near our hotel is called 'el jardin', and it has this spectacular tree canopy covering almost the entire walkway. Simply charming. This city is filled with music. And there was a small parade this evening of men dressed in clothing reminiscent of Spain centuries ago, accompanied by a small band and a group of celebrants. They are advertising a little concert they'll perform, and you follow them to listen to their music. We talked with a resident, a man from New York who practiced law in Hawaii for 25 years and moved to Guanajuato with his wife 26 years ago. He said he didn't like it here their first year; it was pretty rough. But there have been big improvements in cleaning up the town, and his wife started a dog neutering and care program for all the strays. They've neutered over 21,000 dogs in their 26 years here. Amazing work. He gave a great suggestion for dinner and even came by later to see if we found the place. Our hotel is a real labyrinth; up and down stairs, around many corners, through little hallways.
Thurs 2/16: This morning Susanna guided us on a walking tour of the city. We saw many churches, squares, markets, university buildings Cervantes' writings are celebrated here every October with an International Cervantino Festival. We learned that in 1799 Alexander von Humboldt was a very early explorer/geographer of Mexico and 'Spanish America' and his work influenced many including Darwin and Thoreau. Diego Rivera was born here. Independence battles were fought here; and Miguel Hidalgo, the priest who fought for independence, and Ignacio Allende, the Spanish army captain turned Mexican independence fighter, were killed here in 1811. Their heads hung from hooks on the large granary building to teach the people a lesson about fighting for independence. After eleven years of fighting, independence was finally granted in 1821. This morning we see panaderos, bread makers, carrying large baskets of breads on their heads. They bake on the mountainside and bring their breads daily to the panaderias in town. The colorful limestone from nearby quarries is used throughout the town. But many buildings are painted in bold colors; they're beautiful. The sky is a brilliant blue. I'm sure my photographer got some great pictures. We thank Susanna for sharing her city with us. Later we ride the funicular at dusk to look at this colorful city surrounded by hills. We hear music in the streets for hours.
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