Tues 9/13: There are 5 million people in Phnom Penh; it's a large busy city with a lot of tuk-tuks. $1 US = 4075 Cambodian riel. The written language is derived from sanskrit. 90% of the population is Buddhist, 5% Christian, 5% Muslim. I learn the name of a curious fruit is rambutan; it has some soft spikes on its outside. For centuries, Cambodia was a huge Khmer empire encompassing current Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Burma. Cambodia was occupied under France from 1852-1953 and received official independence on 11/9/53. Chan takes us to the National Museum of Cambodia, where a local guide shows us some relics taken from Angkor Wat and other ancient items. After visiting the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, we have a long drive to Siem Reap. We see many temples and pagodas along the way. Many look like what I expected to see in Thailand. Chan is excited to show us the "spider market" in our travels. He enjoys handfuls of dried cocoons; we also see dried spiders, roaches, grasshoppers. Later we have very tasty stir-fried pork and vegetables. We see many large shuttered hotels when we arrive in Siem Reap. Covid had devastated tourism, of course. The Chinese aren't yet allowed to leave the country, so their absence is felt here. There are few tourists from anywhere. All of our guides thank us for coming to their countries. I think we're the first Americans they've seen for 2-1/2 years. There are more tourists from Australia and New Zealand. We say thanks and goodbye to Chan Prosseth and Heang. Later, Anne and i enjoy a small dish of excellent lemon coconut sorbet. US dollars have been accepted just about everywhere.
Wed 9/14: Today we meet our guide Rocky (Sy Rottana) and driver Mr. Leong. Like so many of our guides, Rocky had a very tough childhood. His father was killed, and he had to leave his mother when he was around 7; he doesn't know his birth date, but he thinks he's 40. He lived in monasteries, wherever he could survive; he was a monk. He received an education, is married and has 2 daughters. He tells us about the UN troops near his village in 1993. Pol Pot, that devil, died in the northern jungle in 1998. He had an unbelievable amount of land mines lain throughout the country; and a huge amount remain. Rocky tells us of a marriage between an Indian King and a Cambodian Queen centuries ago. We can see Indian features in many Cambodians. There are 24 different ethnic groups in Cambodia. We see monkeys along the roads. Ancient Angkor Wat is a huge complex; tourists would never see all of it. We see walls and temples with bas relief of gods, wars, different stories. The site was rediscovered in 1840 by a butterfly enthusiast named Henri Mouhot, and buildings are still being discovered and some reconstruction is underway. Rocky tells us that 80% of the damage was done by humans, 20% by nature.
Thurs 9/15: Yesterday I had a disappointing western-style breakfast. Today I chose a yummy rice. Much better choice. Anne enjoyed her omelette. We see a movie about the land mine removal effort here and the efforts being made by Aka Ra. Before our trip, Anne and I read 'First They Killed my Father' by Loung Ung. We learn that Angelina Jolie finished filming a film here of the same title. The story seems so unreal, but it was a way of life here. Tonight we have dinner and enjoy an Aspara Dance Show.
Fri 9/16: Goodbye and best wishes to dear Rocky and Mr. Leong. We fly to Bangkok, a 1-1/2 hour flight. And OMG! What a difference! We meet our guide Sammi and driver Doy. We see huge buildings and a long skyline of some unusual buildings. The MahaNaklon looks like it is crumbling. Traffic is awful with huge jams everywhere. And they drive opposite of us, so we have to be extra careful crossing streets. $1 US = 35 Thai baht. Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country never colonized by Europeans. It is a democracy, but no one can ever speak against the King. As we drive into the city, we are taken to The Author's Lounge at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel for a wonderful experience of High Tea.
Sat 9/17: Another hot, humid day; we tour complexes of temples and palaces; our eyes and heads are on visual overload with gold, jewels, shiny everywhere. We see the 46 meter long Reclining Buddha, the 5-1/2 tons of gold of the Golden Buddha, the Emerald Buddha. So much to see, so many buildings. Really spectacular. Then we have lunch along the Chao Phraya River. Next, Sammi wants us to enjoy a boat ride on the river. OK. We stand on a bouncing floating dock and have to get on a small long-tail boat which is about a 4' drop from the dock. Sammi gets on to help and encourage us. I stand by to see Anne step on a tire along the dockside, then she's sitting on the tire. Next, one foot is on the seat back, then she's in but the pilot and workers and Sammi are working to keep the boat from tipping over as I see Anne's butt hanging over the side. Somehow she gets seated; and I decline to do the same, turn around and wait for them on the solid dock. Anne did enjoy the ride and safely made it back onto the dock with some extra effort. Later, Anne and I enjoyed a vodka and tonic at our rooftop bar, and waited for a downpour to end.
9/18: We'll meet a friend of Anne's cousin for coffee this afternoon and later meet with Sammi and Doy.
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